Freshwater Aquarium Fish

Regional aquariums Here the trick is to reconstruct as faithfully as possible a natural biotope in which everything harmonizes: the water, the soil, the rocks, the plants, and the fish. The density of living beings is higher than that of a natural setting, however. Mounting an aquarium of this type requires a certain knowledge of the geographical area concerned, to ensure the compatibility of the various elements. Central American aquariums There are two possible options. The first is the recreation of a habitat suitable for livebearers from the Poeciliid family: hard water with a temperature of 26 C or more, and plants playing an important role. The second is the assembly of a tank for Cichlids: rocky decor, a few hardy plants, with the water fairly soft, well-filtered, and oxygenated. South American aquariums Mainly devoted to the Amazon, these can be divided into two main categories. The tanks with limpid colorless water, neutral or slightly acid, are inhabited by small amateurs to keep. The aquariums with brown, but still transparent water, recreate an Amazon-style river under the forest roof. Its acidity and its color (sometimes even black) are the result of acids derived from humus. These tanks house other species of Characins, or Cichlids, particularly the famous angelfish and discus. The water is very soft in both these types of aquarium. African aquariums A biotope of a West African river can be reconstructed in an aquarium. The water, which must be well-filtered, is neutral and quite soft. The fish will include the Congolese tetra, one of the rare Characins found on this continent, and certain Cichlids. The typical plants in this environment are Anubias. Tanganyika-type aquariums are characterized by their calcareous and decidedly alkaline water. They have few plants, as these are often treated roughly by the fish, but they have a rocky setting, with hiding places and swimming areas to the liking of several species of Cichlids. The general characteristics of aquariums for Mbunas from Lake Malawi are roughly similar. Asiatic aquariums Running water Cyprinids can be kept in a tank with clear water which is well-filtered, slightly acid, and soft, at a temperature of 25-26 C. Barbs and danios are the usual occupants of this type of aquarium, some species being particularly recommended for beginners to fish keeping. Marshes can be reconstructed with profusely planted aquariums (or aquaterrariums). It is advisable to use genuinely aquatic plants. The water is slightly acid and barely mineralized, to suit barbs, labeos, or fish from the Anabantoid family. Always avoid a mixture of active and placid fishes.
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The community aquarium Here fish and plants not native to the same region are found side by side, creating an environment that does not exist in nature. The results may be charming and ingenious, but this type of aquarium is often disparaged by purists. A community aquarium is often a popular choice with beginners creating - or “mounting”, in aquarists’ jargon - their first tank, although this is not a general rule. The specialist aquarium In this case, the hobbyist concentrates on a particular species, type, family, or group of fish with common characteristics. The choice of this kind of aquarium can be dictated by several factors: interest in reproduction, the attainment of varieties not found in nature (sometimes for competition), or quite simply a fascination which is difficult to explain. As in the previous section, the fish and plants do not have to come from the same region, and the latter are sometimes merely secondary elements. The Dutch aquarium In this type of aquarium fish serve as a foil to the plants, which play the leading role, although the former do also contribute to the equilibrium of the setting, which is not easy to maintain. The plants and fish can come from different geographical areas. The results can be ravishing, sometimes amounting to a veritable aquatic garden, with the aquarist becoming a horticulturist in order to maintain it.As its name suggests, this type of aquarium is highly prized in the Netherlands, and in Germany too, although it is little (too little?) seen in the rest of the world.
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TEMPERATE WATER AQUARIUMS These are not heated, and ideally the water temperature should vary to the same extent that it does in nature (from 5 to 25 C, approximately). This is difficult, as room temperature barely falls below 15 C and is often over 18 C. Apart from this difference, the underlying principle is the same as in any aquarium: to recreate an environment. This demands just as much time and care as with tropical aquariums. It must be stressed that we are not talking about goldfish bowls! Temperate aquariums house robust species, among them the fish found in our rivers and ponds, which fall beyond the scope of this book. On the other hand, we will cover goldfish (Carassius auratus), all too often neglected in favor of tropical species, but which, in their innumerable variety, give great pleasure to many hobbyists. Still within this temperature range, mention must be made of garden ponds, where goldfish and koi carps (colored varieties of the common carp) can be kept and bred. If they are well designed, such ponds can recreate a natural biotope, with aquatic and terrestrial plants, invertebrates, and amphibians. Sometimes they can also play host to tropical fish for a brief summer stay, if the temperature permits. After all, fish can take vacations too, especially if they coincide with yours! It is a practical solution when there is nobody to look after an aquarium during a long absence, and when you come back you may be amazed by the weight the fish have put on, or by some unexpected new arrivals. On the other hand, do not be too surprised if some fish have disappeared, unable to tolerate the change of setting - or the predatory instincts of the local cat.
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DIFFERENT TYPES OF AQUARIUM An aquarium is not just a motley collection of plants and fish. Some aquarists aim to reconstruct the biotope of a specific geographical region (Central America, the Amazon, Asia, Africa), while others concentrate on a single group of fish (for example, livebearers, Cichlids, or marine fish). Whatever the option, an aquarium must be attractive and wellbalanced for its occupants to thrive, and this entails some understanding of the various habitats, as well as their inhabitants.An aquarium is a collection of elements - fish, plants, soil, rocks, water - which are compatible with each other. However, there are several types of aquarium, all sharing the same general principles and techniques but differing with respect to the environment created. Aquariums are divided into two main groups: - temperate aquariums, often mistakenly called cold water aquariums, where the water temperature can range from 5 to 25 C; - tropical aquariums, with either fresh or sea water. These cover the areas lying roughly between the tropic of Cancer, to the north of the equator, and the tropic of Capricorn, to the south, where the water temperature varies by only a few degrees throughout the whole year.
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Making sea water for storage and back-up The method is the same, except that plastic food containers are generally used. The quantity of salt can be multiplied by three or four to manufacture concentrated water that will therefore occupy less storage space. Adjusting the density The density is too high Part of the water is siphoned off - this can be stored for later use - and the softest water available is added, taking care to measure the density. When the water level of a marine aquarium goes down because of evaporation, it is not the sea water which is evaporating but the fresh water, and it is therefore the latter which must be added to make up the level. The addition of sea water would entail an increase in density. The density is too low In this case, salts must be added. These must be dissolved beforehand in a container which is then gradually emptied into the aquarium, with constant checks on the density. Both these operations must be performed with care if the aquarium already contains fish, in order to avoid causing any excessively abrupt changes that could be detrimental to the fish.
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The reconstitution of artificial sea water The quality of the fresh water used is important: it must be as pure as possible. It is best to use water with a hardness of less than 8.4, although reconstitution is still possible with higher levels, providing the CH is equal to at least 75-80% of the general hardness value. Take care to avoid water containing nitrates (often found in farming areas), to which invertebrates are very sensitive, or metals, toxic for some animals where present above certain limits. Making sea water in an aquarium, before putting it into operation Fill the aquarium with fresh water and aerate it for 24 hours. Calculate and weigh the quantity of salts to be dissolved, then introduce them into the aquarium. Then just aerate for another 24-48 hours and check the density, adjusting it as required. ARTIFICIAL SALTS Several companies have special aquarium salts on the market, and it is even possible to find concentrated sea water. Some salts are intended for marine tanks for fishes, others for aquariums with invertebrates. Their quality is satisfactory, although there are likely to be improvements in the future, and, as they are enriched with calcium, micronutrients, and vitamins, they are obviously relatively expensive. There have been no adverse reports to date about the use of these salts in aquariums: in those areas where accidents do occur, they are usually due to miscalculations on the part of the aquarist. Artificial sea water can be reconstituted with the help of special salts available in aquarium stores.
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WATER, A HAVEN FOR LIFE TURBIDITY Clarity is more important in sea water than in fresh water. Tropical environments in particular contain very few dissolved solids and they are the most transparent waters on the planet. A marine aquarium must therefore be filtered more efficiently and to a greater extent than a freshwater tank (see Filtration, page 237). THE ORIGIN OF SALT WATER IN MARINE AQUARIUMS The first idea which springs to mind is that of collecting natural sea water, but this is difficult for somebody who lives a long way from a coast or requires large quantities. Moreover, although sea water does present advantages,it also has its inconveniences.While some aquarists filter it before using it to totally or partially fill up their tanks, the majority use reconstituted sea water. In theory, the recipe is a simple one: dissolve the salts in the water. In practice, however, not just any water or any salts can be used, and it is out of the question to use table salt or that derived from salt marshes. Furthermore, good sea water cannot be reconstituted using poor quality fresh water. Where and when to collect natural sea water? The ideal solution would be to go to the open sea, where the water is likely to be less polluted and to have more constant characteristics. Near the coasts, the following must be avoided: urbanized or industrialized areas and ports, which are susceptible to pollution; anywhere near river mouths, estuaries, or bays, where the water is desalted; and areas of stagnant sea water (pools at low tide) and salt marshes. Coasts with sand dunes are suitable in principle, but the water is often laden with suspended sediment. Rocky coasts are preferable regions from where water can be collected. The best periods for collection are autumn and winter, because plankton develop in spring and tourism increases the risk of pollution in summer. Calm weather is preferable, in order to avoid suspended material, although a heavy swell reoxygenates the water. In this case, the water can be collected 1-3 days later, the time in which the suspended material turns into sediment. However, the water must be filtered in all cases, first roughly and then more finely.
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FINDING OUT THE CHARACTERISTICS OF NATURAL WATER The European Union has set compulsory standards for drinking and environmental quality, but the strict legislation in the UK goes well beyond these. In England and Wales, for example, domestic water is monitored by the Drinking Water Inspectorate, which regularly checks up on the practices of the water companies and investigates any possible infringement of the law. The Environment Agency, on the other hand, is responsible for the quality of water in rivers, estuaries, and coastal areas. It issues licenses to discharge waste into these waters and takes chemical and biological samples to monitor the effect on the environment. The results of these controls are available to the public.OTHER DISSOLVED SUBSTANCES Sea water contains more than 60 elements, some of them in microscopic amounts: for example, there is 1 g/m3 of gold in sea water. All the solids dissolved in sea water serve a purpose, and that is why the salts that are used to reconstitute water must be of excellent quality. Some substances can accumulate in sea water and in high concentrations give rise to concern. This is especially true in the case of organic matter, but it is possible to eliminate them by partially changing the water or using certain devices, such as an aerator (page 250). As soon as the water is put in the tank, the ammonia content rises until, as shown in the graph, it reaches its maximum level after 8 to 10 days. Simultaneously, the bacteria wich transform this ammonia are developing and nitrites are formed, reaching their peak around the 15th day. Other forms of bacteria also develop, converting, in turn, these nitrites into nitrates. While the nitrites disappear between the 20th and 25th days, the nitrates must be eliminated by partial water change. The establishement of this cycle requires at least 3-4 weeks. During this period the ammonia and nitrites reach levels that are sometimes ten times that of toxic doses (identical to those of fresh water, see page 20).
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THE NITROGEN CYCLE This occurs in the same way in sea water and fresh water. In a marine aquarium the vegetation is often less abundant than in fresh water, and so the nitrates, the end products of the nitrogen cycle, will have a tendency to accumulate. At high doses these pose little danger to fish but are toxic for invertebrates, especially corals. It is therefore important to eliminate them by partial, but regular, water changes.Once a marine tank has been put into operation, the nitrogen cycle is slower to take effect than in a freshwater tank: around 3-4 weeks (although this is a generalization, as every aquarium is unique). Fish or other animals must not therefore be put into the water during this period, although the length of time can be reduced by various means (see Assembling your Tank, page 218), based on the principle of introducing bacteria. In any event, measuring the nitrite levels is an excellent indicator of the progress of the nitrogen cycle. Once the water has been put into the tank, this parameter must be measured regularly; when the quantity of nitrites goes down close to zero, the nitrates appear and you only need to wait a few days before inserting the fish. Nevertheless, measuring the nitrites at regular intervals is still highly recommended, as long as the aquarium is in use.
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MEASURING DENSITY Density is measured with a hydrometer, whose buoyancy increases as the water gets saltier. In the aquarium trade, most hydrometers also include a thermometer. The specific gravity at water level must be read with care; in fact, it is preferable to use the hydrometer outside the aquarium, as the movement of the water makes it difficult to read. In this case, decant the water into a test tube or a transparent container (a PVC bottle, for example) and float the hydrometer in it. When it stops moving, read the value corresponding to the level of the water (1.023 in the diagram below, and not 1.022). To check whether your hydrometer is working properly, just measure the density of a distilled or very soft water: it must equal 1.000.PH VALUES As sea water is salty, its pH is therefore higher than that of fresh water. Pure sea water in the middle of the ocean has a pH of 8.3- Near the coasts, this drops to about 8 or a little less, as its dilution with fresh water lowers the salt content. The pH of sea water in an aquarium must vary between 8 and 8.5; beyond these values, animals will experience certain physiological problems. Variations in pH in a marine aquarium Sea water contains a great deal of calcium carbonate and bicarbonate, and there are only slight variations in pH in a natural setting. It is a different matter in an aquarium, a restricted habitat operating as a closed cycle. The pH must not fall below 8, but a slow and regular decrease in this parameter may be seen. Why? The water in an aquarium sometimes contains too much carbon dioxide, which has a tendency to lower the pH. What can you do? The first step is to measure the CH: - if it is under 7.2 CH, add calcium or replace some of the water. This situation is, however, fairly rare in an aquarium without corals, solely occupied by fish; - if it is over 7.2 CH, there is an excess of carbon dioxide. Stirring of the water must therefore be increased by using diffusers or an electric pump.
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